I dig cauliflower. This wasn't always the case, though. Something about the look of it always creeped me out. Dense, colorless, totally untrustworthy. But now I crave the stuff (and I've since learned that there are plenty of colorful varieties, too).
The head of cauliflower in our fridge was needing some attention. It was getting shoved deeper and deeper to the dark recesses of the bottom shelf, dangerously close to being forgotten about forever. So I was on the lookout for a recipe to help show it some proper love.
Roast it? We've done that a lot lately, so maybe something new. In the end, it was my treasured Ad Hoc at Home cookbook that came through. "Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Beet Chips." Indeed!
Thomas Keller's recipes are definitely more involved than the average. But the extra effort has always paid off, so I followed this one to the tee (the only adjustment was adding some fresh late-season corn to the sautéed cauliflower florets). The result was pretty spectacular. A rich, velvety, super-satisfying soup, balanced by the earthy crunch of the beet chips and croutons, made all the more hearty by the sautéed veggies. A meal in a bowl.
There were definitely a few places you could cut corners, though, if need be. Store-bought croutons and beet chips would be totally acceptable, and would make this a much easier weeknight meal. I wouldn't try slicing the beets without a mandolin, either. So that might be a deal breaker.
Either way, this soup is a star attraction. The main event. Come to think of it, so are all of the Ad Hoc at Home dishes I've made thus far. I haven't yet dined out at any of Thomas Keller's restaurants, but if these recipes are any indication, his preeminent status is well deserved.
*Full disclosure, my semi-lactose-intolerant wife had a hard time with this one. Good sport that she is, she gave it a try and said that it tasted really good, but that it was "reeeeeeaaallly rich." We had to agree to disagree on this one, because that was precisely what I loved about it.
Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Beet Chips
Adapted from Ad Hoc at Home
Forget the canned stuff, this cream of cauliflower soup is rich, velvety, and completely delicious. The beet chips lend a deep earthiness to the dish. And the croutons and sautéed cauliflower florets turn this into a hearty and satisfying meal in a bowl. If you're short on time or don't have a mandolin, go with store-bought croutons and beet chips.
Yield: Serves 6
Ingredients
- 2 heads of cauliflower (about 4-5 pounds total)
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 1 leek, chopped
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/4 teaspoon curry powder
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 2 cups milk
- 2 cups water
- 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
- freshly ground black pepper
- kosher salt
- extra virgin olive oil
- 1 medium red beet, peeled
- canola oil (for frying)
- 2 cups croutons (see below)
Directions
For the soup:
- Remove the outer leaves and core from the cauliflower. Trim off the stems and reserve. Break off 2 cups worth of small florets and set aside.
- Coarsely chop the remaining cauliflower and stems into 1-inch pieces. They should all be more-or-less the same size for even cooking.
- Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, leek, chopped cauliflower, and curry powder. Season with 2 teaspoons of salt. Mix well and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are mostly tender, about 20 minutes.
- Pour in the milk, cream, and water. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring and skimming off foam occasionally.
- Working in batches, add cauliflower mixture to a blender or food processor. Puree until perfectly smooth. Taste, season with salt if necessary. Transfer back to the pot and keep warm over low heat. (The soup can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.)
For the cauliflower garnish:
- Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add vinegar and 2 cups of cauliflower florets. Blanch until tender, 2-4 minutes. Drain.
- Melt remaining 1 tablespoon of butter in a medium pan over medium-high heat. Add cauliflower florets and saute until a nice golden brown. Set aside.
For the beet chips:
- Fill a small deep pot with 1 inch of oil. Warm over medium heat until 300°F. Set a wire rack over a paper-towel-lined baking sheet.
- As oil heats, slice off the 1/2-inch ends of the beet. Slice beet on a mandolin into rounds, a little thicker than paper-thin.
- Carefully add a few beet rounds to the oil and fry, turning regularly with chopsticks or a slotted spoon. They will bubble intensely for about 2-3 minutes. Once they stop bubbling, remove from oil and place on wire rack, and season with salt. Fry remaining beet chips in batches.
To serve:
Reheat soup if necessary. Thin with a little water if it seems too thick to desired consistency. Taste, season with salt if necessary.
Ladle soup into bowls. Top each with several croutons, cauliflower florets, and a little stack of beet chips. Season with some freshly ground black pepper and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
Enjoy!